Oregon winters are wet and chilly, and these boots make all the difference. I use them for road riding, with SPD pedals. They don't leak up through the cleats as some shoes do, and the shell is truly waterproof. I find them comfortable down to about 33 degrees, with thick socks. I've ridden in heavy rains for hours many times and they never leak... except, as with every winter shoe I've used, water can get in from the top, and the neoprene collar will soak up some water. But even after riding for several hours, this has not resulted in water leaking down into the shoe. If you're really hard-core about dryness, use gaiters to cover the upper shoe collar, and pull your rain pants down over the gaiters for a perfect seal. I do recommend getting the WIDE version, even for normal feet, as the "normal" fit version made my narrow feet feel pretty claustrophobic. Lastly, the soles are very good for walking, when you need to.
There is nothing in this world like a shift on a Shimano front setup. Even their old mechanical stuff worked like butter, but the Di2 setup is nuts. Shifts every time, quiet, smooth, can do it one-handed, it's the best.
The crankarms themselves I have no issues with, even with the recall going around. The rings are where the magic happens, and it's worth it to me to not think twice about a front shift, or grinding it out a bit more in the big ring just to avoid that dreaded potential drop from other setups.
Great crankset. Catch a sale and treat your bike.
For winter weather I strongly recommend winter shoes. I tend to have cold feet and these winter shoes make biking in mid 20�F temperatures much more tolerable. I wear wool socks and these shoes and can last for about 2 hours before taking a warmup break. I had tried regular shoes with shoe covers and chemical hand warmers, and these shoes are much warmer. I wear these in the same size as my summer Shimano shoes and find the fit, with moderately thick wool socks, to be good.
Replaced the BB on my 4 year-old / 19,000 mile Specialized Roubaix. I opted for the Park 59.3 BB tool rather than using an adapter. I replaced my crank at the same time because a full crank on sale wasn't much more expensive than the regular price of the big chain ring that I needed to replace.
I hadn't done a repair like this on this "generation" of Shimano drivetrain technology. It was surprisingly easy to do. If you have moderate wrenching skills and access to YouTube, this is definitely something you can do at home.
